Sunday, September 17, 2006

Hola from Barcelona, Spain!!

From the land of the fine arts, romance, pastries and vino we made our way to the land of flamenco dancing, passion, tapas and sangria – that of Spain.

Great food and sweet sangria…welcome to Barcelona, Spain!!


Our first stop was the vibrant city of Barcelona, the capital city of the Catalonia region of Spain. We boarded an overnight train from Marseille and arrived to sunny and HOT weather in Barcelona. Finding a hotel was a bit more of an effort than it normally is or perhaps it was the heat and the warm clothes we were wearing from France that made it seem that much longer. After wandering down the famous and well known Las Ramblas and its associated side streets, at noon we finally found a place we would call home for the next five days; Avinyo Hostel. Right away, we could tell Spain was a whole different beast compared to France in regards to accommodation costs. Most of the one and two star hotels that we would normally have paid 45-50 Euros in France were going for 65-80 Euros in Spain. We ended up staying at Avinyo Hostel for 43 Euros a night, which was a steal. We had our own private room which was immaculate, bright and very roomy but had to use a shared bathroom which to our luck was always kept clean…a bonus for Chris and I!!

The view from our Balcony…super quiet in the mornings but oh so lively and loud once the sun breaks


Well as I write this, today is almost the end of day 5 of our 5-day stint in Barcelona. It has been an awesome five days full of medieval palaces and plazas, fantastic modernist architecture, a lively nightlife which never seems to end and some appetizing food which is sure to whet anyone’s appetite!! Our two favorite restaurants, which we would recommend to anyone visiting Barcelona, are the “Les 15 Nits” in the Placa Riel square and “La Fonda” just off Las Ramblas closer to the water. The long line ups that start half an hour before the restaurants open at 8pm are definitely worth the wait; the food is savory, the prices unheard of and the wine as cheap as it gets, who wouldn’t want to go here for a bite to eat. The weather has been quite hot for us with temperatures almost always in the low to mid 30’s and the evenings coming down to a mere 26-27 degrees. It’s hard for us to leave Barcelona as there is still so much more we could see but at the same time, we both know we will be coming back here as it is a place where you can lose all sense of what day and time it is and just immerse yourself in all that is around you. The only difference next time would be that we would want to come back with our close friends as we can see this being a wonderful place to rent a villa and experience this amazing city with a group of friends. As mentioned above, the last five days have been jam packed with activity so enjoy Barcelona with us through our eyes.

At the front of the line for dinner at Les 15 Nits…a fantastic 2nd evening in Barcelona


LAS RAMBLAS

Known as one of the most busy and well-known streets in Spain, Las Ramblas is definitely a street where you can just sit, sip sangria and watch passerbys all day. This tree shaded central walkway is full of charisma and excitement as one can come across vendors, mime street performers, musicians and artists all striving to provide entertainment while trying to earn a living. The avenue stretches from the Placa Catalunya all the way down to the monument to Columbus by the water’s edge with a whole lot in between. There is no such thing as just taking a quick walk down this street…it’s a must see/do when in Barcelona to soak in the atmosphere.

Place Cataluyna – a square of fountains, great architecture and many, many pigeons


La Boqueria, also known as the Market of Saint Joseph is a famous market and city landmark due to the quality and variety of its products most of them being fresh fruits, vegetables and meats; a great place to grab a snack


And the entertainment down Las Ramblas begins…this particular statue liked to make “special” noises and try to “cover up” whenever gave him some change


”Atlas” carrying the world on his back


I actually thought this one was an actual statue until he scared the crap out of me and moved, well worth the couple of bucks we gave him


”The Thinker” - figured we’d try to make a few extra bucks as well…hehe


Our favorite of all…we like to call him the “Horny Devil”…he would get a wee bit too excited when he was given change, especially from the ladies


Placa Reial – located on the left side of Las Ramblas, this square is home to the Fountain of the Three Graces and two street lamps designed by the famous architect Gaudi; a square that houses numerous restaurants and bars


Placa Reial – a place to sit anywhere and just people watch


If you can believe it, the half visible figure in front of the guitar player was a male flamenco dancer we watched in a small bar in Placa Reial – you can obviously see how fast his feet were working, boy how the Spanish love to dance passionately


Another great performer we saw numerous times at Placa Reial – and Ribber, please do NOT try this at home


The 50m Columbus Monument – a piece of work built in 1888 on the occasion of the Universal Exhibition to commemorate the discovery of America because it was at Barcelona that the Catholic monarchs, Ferdinand and Isabel, welcomed him home


BARRI GOTHIC (GOTHIC QUARTER)

The Gothic Quarter is the heart of Barcelona where you can find the architectural heritage of yesterday through the remaining ancient fortifications, Gothic cathedrals and medieval buildings. This site was chosen by the Romans in the reign of Augustus to find a new town and has been the location of the city’s administrative buildings ever since.

It is here where Chris and I stumbled upon a free outdoor concert in the Placa del Rei on our first night in Barcelona. Placa del Rei is in the heart of the Gothic quarter embedded behind the Palace and amongst the old Roman walls and is Barcelona’s favorite venues for concerts and artistic activities. It is here where we enjoyed the talents of many young artists during the International Folk Festival. There was dancing, colorful costumes and singing all accompanied by live bands representing various countries and regions such as Armenia, Poland, Argentina, Orenburg and of course Catalonia. We spent hours sitting in this old quarter watching the varying talents and skills offered by this free event. The crowds gathered and before we knew it, there were loads of people, locals and tourists alike, tapping to the music and enjoying the festivities. Our favorite would have to be Argentina with their upbeat attitudes and musical performances that kept making us shake our heads and wonder how they did it. Their performance ended with a well-deserved standing applause.

Remnants of the Roman city walls


Barcelona Cathedral, an unique church with an outdoor courtyard before entering the main altar – unfortunately the exterior was currently undergoing renovations as is much in Barcelona


A beautiful example of fine Catalan gothic architecture


In the heart of the Barri Gothic area


A unique and very detailed water spout…definitely better looking than our down spouts back home


The colorful twirling costumes of Poland


The jousting acts of Orenburg


Our 2nd favorite act – the Armenians


Big cheeks on the left may look funny but boy could he produce some beautiful music out of that little flute like instrument, it was utterly amazing


MODERNIST ARCHITECTURE

Barcelona brings a whole different meaning to the word modernist architecture. You can spend days wandering the streets and come across new and surprising buildings each day. The most popular area for modern architecture is the Quadrant d’Or also known as the Golden Square or Eixample area. It is here where you can see the defining works of famous architects such as Montaner, Cadafalch, Bassegoda and of course, the one and only, Antonio Gaudi.

The ‘Editorial Montaneri Simon’ built by Montaner is one of Barcelona’s most innovative and active art centres


Cadafalch’s ‘Casa Amatller’ – a combination of a rigid steeped gable with floral neogothic details


The ‘Casa Terrades’ – looks like we just stepped into another fairy tale book


Old with a backdrop of new..a beautiful combination


Another surprise at the next corner


Agbar Tower – Barcelona’s newest entry in the field of unique and high quality modern architecture – it definitely sticks out from the rest of the city


Agbar Tower by night


Now this is architecture…no two buildings are the same


The ‘Block of Disagreement’ because of the contrast between the various types and styles of buildings seen here including Gaudi’s Casa Batllo on the far right hand side


Antonio Gaudi was a devout Catholic and an eccentric architect whose work was and still is today an eye opener for anyone who is able to see his famous pieces of work in person. From his masterpiece, the Sagrada Familia to his innovative buildings on the Passeig de Gracia and his enchanting outdoor park, Parc Guell, Gaudi was definitely an architect who was not afraid to use his imagination and creativity. His pieces of work are one of a kind and are full of references to nature and to Catholicism. Let’s just say Chris was in la la land as we got a chance to see many of his world-renowned pieces of work.

‘Casa Mila’ also known as ‘La Pedrera’ (The Quarry) is considered Gaudi’s most mature work and the pinnacle of modernist architecture – originally built as an apartment block, now this would be a cool place to live


Gaudi loved to incorporate sinuous curves and elaborate metalwork into his pieces of work


The front entrance


The internal courtyard as soon as you enter the complex, great way to bring in light


Not your simple balcony, that’s for sure


The attic comprising of at least 270 arches


The elaborate ‘La Pedrera’ rooftop consisting of your not so typical roof shafts and chimneys


These chimneys have now become a symbol of Barcelona


Gaudi’s ‘Casa Batllo’ which uses curved shapes and is a bit eerie looking, especially at night


Entrance to Gaudi’s ‘Park Guell’, one of Barcelona’s largest urban parks


Even the park benches are elaborate and colorful


Gaudi obviously didn’t like using straight lines too much


One of many different mosaic pieces that can be found throughout the entire park


Another example of fine mosaic work


A fantastic view from the point of Park Guell


The Sagrada Familia is Europe’s most unconventional church and is Barcelona’s most famous building and landmark. It is said that a visit to this church is a once-before-you-die sort of experience and boy are they right. The construction of this unique temple began in 1882 and it’s still only half built today with construction continuing as far into the future as 2022. Gaudi spent over 40 years of his life on this masterpiece until his death in 1926 and is buried on the site in the crypt. His masterpiece is based on the use of innovative geometrical shapes of naturalist style and is the cornerstones on which the current architects continue the work to this date. The final construction of this church will have 18 towers in total with eight already built – the eight of the twelve bell towers of the façade, dedicated to the 12 Apostles and having a height exceeding 100 metres. Still to come are the 4 remaining towers dedicated to the Apostles and towers representing the 4 Evangelists, the Mother of God, plus the tallest tower (170m) standing for Jesus Christ.

We were looking forward to viewing the interior of the church and to be able to climb the steep stone steps to the top of one of the towers to take in the view as recommended by our friends Wendy & Tony (well maybe not Ton). They had been to Spain a few years prior and remember climbing the steep and narrow steps and being able to stop along the way to peek out the windows to see how high up you really are. Unfortunately, we were unable to climb the stairs this time around due to construction taking place in those areas. We ended up taking one of the two elevators to the top of the towers on the Nativity Façade, guess we’ll have to climb the towers the next time we come back.

I am at a loss of words as to how to describe this church. As soon as you enter this space, you are reminded immediately of how this is a “work in progress” with the many cranes, scaffolding and yellow tape all around limiting visitors to certain areas. The use of curves, stained glass and tiles is evident throughout the entire church and is what marks this creation as a Gaudi original. Pictures just do not do it justice.

We look forward to coming back in the future to see how far along the construction has come and to possibly see as close to the final version as possible.

Just one side of the famous ‘Sagrada Familia’


The Passion Façade sculpted by Josep Subirachs – this seems to be a controversial piece of work which seems to stand apart from the rest of the work due its sculpted figures being angular and there looking sinister


I personally think Subirachs’ ability to show such emotion using sharp angles is amazing


Only one tiny part of the interior of the church which is completed


Gaudi at work again


Abstract stained glass using vibrant and vivid colors


At the top of the Nativity Façade tower which offers fabulous views of the city


Peeking out of a window on our way down the tower…that’s a fair bit of a drop….


The Nativity Façade sculpted by Japanese sculptor, Etsuro Sotoo


Wonder how long this took to sculpt??


124 years worth of work and still a “work in progress” – a true testament to fulfilling one man’s dream


WATERFRONT

You can easily reach the beautiful blue waters of the Mediterranean at the bottom of Las Ramblas. Here you can take in the view, cross the Rambla de Mar footbridge to Port Vell or take in the sandy beaches along the Olympic Village.

The Rambla de Mar footbridge which connects the end of Las Ramblas to Port Vell


Port Vell – home to a magnificent leisure marina which was built as a result of the 1992 Olympics


Taking a little break from the sweltering heat


Two of Barcelona’s skyscrapers that can be seen from any lookout point – they mark the spot of the Olympic Port area


World Trade Centre and Eiffel Tower look-a-like which is used as part of a cable car ride from Montjuic to Olympic Port


MONTJUIC

Montjuic is the central park of Barcelona, rising 213 metres (699 ft) above the city and is Barcelona’s biggest recreation area and a fabulous vantage point from which to view the city. The first plans for urbanizing the mountain were drawn up for the 1929 Universal Exposition and were only recently completed with the 1992 Olympics. It is a place where you can get away from the bustling streets of the city and just relax in the serenity and calmness that surrounds you. The park is home to the 1992 Olympic Ring, the National Palace, Meis Van Der Rohe’s Barcelona Pavilion, the Magic Fountain and Placa Esplanya.

The Olympic Ring & Calatrava Tower atop Montjuic


The 1929 Stadium refurbished for the Olympics


Palau Sant Jordi – futuristic stadium also built for the Olympics with a monolithic roof with no supporting columns; it took 10 days to lift the roof using hydraulic lifts for the Olympics Games and is now a favoured concert venue


The National Palace which today houses the Museum of Catalunya National Art


The view from the National Palace


In the far, far distance one can see the outline of the famous Sagrada Familia from the National Palace


One of the highlights of the Barcelona exhibition, the Barcelona Pavilion


The Magic Fountain and many other fountains which light the path to the National Palace when the sun sets


The Magic Fountain performs nightly light shows to music – view from the Palace


The finale


Placa Espanya at the base of the path towards National Palace


Placa Espanya at night


SANTA MARIA DEL MAR BASILICA

This holy shrine is thought by many to be one of the best examples of gothic architecture in Catalonia and superb acoustics for concerts. Chris and I were a bit disappointed though when we had a chance to visit the basilica, as it was not what we had envisioned. It was rather simple compared to the Barcelona Cathedral and the Monastery of Montserrat in our opinions.

Approaching the Basilica from a narrow side street


Interior


A gorgeous blue stained window


MONASTERY OF MONTSERRAT

On day 3, we decided to take a small day trip 50km northwest of Barcelona to the Monastery of Montserrat which is set high atop a 1,236 metre “Serrated Mountain” (Mont Serrat) and is the home to one of Catalonia’s holiest places. A tram or cable car takes you to the top of the mountain and as I sat in the tram going further up and up and feeling the steepness of the mountain, I couldn’t help but wonder how this place of worship could have been built back in the day. Without trams and cable cars then, I could only imagine how hard it must have been for those who built this holy place of worship; I guess all you need is will power, a reason and a belief and beautiful and amazing things can be done.

The monastery was founded in 1025 after a statue of the Black Virgin Mary was found here. Pilgrims still come from all over Christendom to pay homage to the Black Virgin (La Moreneta), a 12th century wooden sculpture of Mary, regarded as Catalonia’s patroness. The statue stands in the basilica’s altar where the religious and the touristy line up for the chance to kiss it. Chris and I thoroughly enjoyed our time in Montserrat not only for the chance of visiting this holy place but to also be able to indulge in the beautiful surroundings we were in and to also be able to get a good hike in. Set amidst the mountain, is the holy site of Santa Cova where it is said that the Black Virgin statue was found. You could take a funicular half way down where you would then have a steep 15-minute hike to the shrine or you could hike the entire way. We opted for the latter and had a good workout while enjoying the natural surroundings all around us. It was a great day to get away from the hustle and bustle of lively Barcelona and to sit atop a mountain and just reflect.

The monastery is situated on a mountaintop of bulbous peaks


Basilica Façade of Christ and the 12 Apostles


The amazing interior, easy to see why this is a sanctuary for so many


The Black Virgin statue which has made this church such a holy place


Santa Cova – the place where the statue is believed to have been found


Statues like this could be seen along the hike to Santa Cova


A great end to a great day


With five wonderful and exciting days in Barcelona, it was a great introduction to start our travels throughout Spain. We can’t wait to see what our next destination Valencia has to offer.

Until then adios amigos...

Roaming Ravy

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

I too am in awe of sinuous and curvy things... perticularly on women!

the mountains of Montserrat look cool, also curvy.

Anonymous said...

Joanne (China) said...

I plan to go to Barcelona in Janary for 5days or so for my birthday to celebrate it with my friend who's birthday it also is. She is moving there for a year to study from India, she was the tour leader I shared a room with in India and is Indian. You have made me soo excited and given me a head start on my research!!! You look like you had a fab time and are making the most of everything as always!!! Love your red dress with the flowers too! You look grogeous in it Rav! Amazed and in awe by the buildings in Barcelona already..How did u travel/book to go Montserrat? Could you e-mail and tell me? Thanks. xxxxxxxxx