Portugal - A country of intrigue and magic it seems

“We had such a wonderful time that by the end of it, we didn’t want to leave” would sum up our short stay in Portugal. The three days we had to explore Portugal were limited to the capital city, Lisbon and we found even three days in the capital were not enough to see it all. We regretfully had only planned three days in Portugal as a side trip from Spain due to everything else we still want to see in Europe and to be honest, because we didn’t think there was much to Portugal, but boy were we wrong.

Welcome to Lisbon, Portugal

Lisbon ended up being fantastic. We spent three full days exploring the different areas of this capital city and taking it all in – the colors, the odors, its unique Manueline style of architecture, the people and the sites, old and new. It is definitely a city that has preserved the charm of things gone by and one we found to be unique and charming.

We arrived in Lisbon from yet another overnight train to bright blue skies, a beautiful sunrise and a nice cool temperature. As soon as we got our usual information from the tourist office, we started our walk to find a place to stay but were stopped when an old lady at the train station confronted us. She had a brochure on a hotel that she said was 10 minutes from the city centre, would only cost us 35 Euros for a double and on top of that she would pay for our taxi to get there. Still half asleep and not really feeling like walking the streets, it sounded like a killer deal so we hopped into the taxi and were excited at the thought of taking a shower and waking up before doing some exploring. Everything was going well until the taxi driver kept driving and driving and driving. He was weaving in and out of small alleys, up steep hills, through parks and what seemed like 20 minutes in the taxi, we finally reached our destination. Suffice to say I was not happy. As much as Chris and I love walking and have become accustomed to it now, walking 35 to 40 minutes everyday to get to the city center and back to the hotel is just ridiculous and especially when you only have three days in a city. So we got out of the taxi, didn’t even bother to see the room and started the LONG haul back to the city centre.

Now if there’s one complaint we have about Lisbon, it would have to be their crummy tourist maps. The map was no help at all. It barely had any street names on it and it seemed like every street we thought we were going down ended up being a different street by the time we walked to the end of it. Finally after a good two hours of weaving through streets and walking up and then down hills (Lisbon is definitely not a FLAT city…they love their steep hills and stairs), we found the pension we were looking for that was listed in the Lonely Planet, Imperial Pension. From the outside, the pension does not look that “royal” at all but the rooms themselves were clean and large and the location could not be beat right in the heart of the city center (in Praca Restaurados). We quickly grabbed a double room with a shower and shared toilet for an amazing 25 Euros (one of the cheapest accommodations we have stayed in thus far in Europe). Even though there are seven steep flights of stairs that never seem to end (especially when you are carrying your bags up them), this is definitely a place we would recommend to anyone visiting Lisbon on a budget.

Our three days in Lisbon flew by and our days were filled with not only sightseeing but lots of time spent wandering the streets, people watching or should I say locals watching (its true what they say about the old Portuguese men, boy are they ever grumpy) and enjoying the fantastic FOOD and DESSERTS that the Portuguese have to offer. We ate like royalty while we stayed in Lisbon as the food was always served in large portions and was very cheap. On average, our dinners would end up being no more than 16 Euros which included two main dishes, alcohol, dessert and coffee/tea – now that’s what I call a deal. And, oh, how can I forget the custard tarts!! Portugal is known for its custard tarts and boy are they right when they say they make the best compared to anywhere else….custard, cinnamon and icing sugar, how could that go wrong??

Well, we saw as much as we could, enjoyed all Lisbon had to offer and really didn’t want to leave by the end of it all. I don’t know how to explain it but there is something about Lisbon and the Portuguese that is just “different”, perhaps even magical to make tourists want to stay there for longer periods of time and to keep them coming back over and over.

To explain everything we saw here would be crazy considering I found it very hard to pick just a “few” pics for Portugal. No matter how many times I went back and tried to cut some out a second, third and even fourth time, I still ended up with a “few too many” as Chris likes to put it. So here it is for all of you who love looking at the pics, a total of 77 pics. Enjoy.

ROSSIO

Rossio is the word used by Lisboetas for the Praca Dom Pedro IV, a very large square that forms the heart of Lisbon and the focal point of the lower city. It is here where you can find the souvenir shops, small cafes, and flower stands; it is where the locals, tourists and pigeons seem to stop, converse, meet one another or catch a bus. Whatever the case, this is the center of Lisbon and where all the action can be found. You can easily spend an afternoon here sitting outside sipping a coffee at the many historic cafes while watching the world pass you by.

View of Praca Dom Pedro IV – the center of Rossio area

Bronze statue of Pedro IV himself which overlooks the large square with the Teatro Nacional de Dona Maria II in the background

A beautiful Baroque fountain in the wee hours of the morning as the sun is just coming up – one of two found in the square

The Praca Dom Pedro IV is not the only square that occupies the Rossio area. The Praca da Figuera, the church of Sao Domingos, the Praca dos Restauradores and the Parque Edoardo VII are some of the other major landmarks that are included in this area.

Equestrian statue of King Joao I in Praca da Figuera with the Castelo of Sao Jorge in the background

A beautiful “green” hotel and pink Palacio Foz which can be found on one side of Praca dos Restauradores. The Palacio Foz today is the seat of the Ministry of Tourism.

BAIXA

Baixa is the lower part of town on the banks of the Tagus River located between the Rossio and the famous Praco do Comercio. It is the economic, business and monumental district, the place where contrasts between the neighboring older quarters are most evident. It is here where you can find the all famous Rua Augusta, the most famous and busiest street in the lower part of town for it is lined with many shops, cafes and restaurants with jugglers, vendors selling jewelry and lottery tickets (a national passion which is very evident) and street artists. It is a pedestrian zone paved with mosaics and is very busy during the day but at night, this area seems to become deserted. Everything in the Baixa area seems to close at 7pm and not even the bars and restaurants stay open past 10pm. This is the district for trade and commerce and to see Lisbon by night, one must go to the Barrio Alto and the Alcantara areas of the city.

Rua Agusta with the Triumphal Arch in the background, what separates this street from the Praca do Comercio

The center of Praca do Comercio – equestrian statue of Jose I and the Triumphal Arch – the square is where the Royal Palace stood for over four hundred years prior to the terrible earthquake of 1755 that destroyed Lisbon and killed 40,000 inhabitants

Detailing of the Triumphal Arch

The Praco do Comercio is characterized by its elegant yellow buildings and porticoes and many old trams that still operate around the square

Elevador de Santa Justa – unique neo-Gothic elevator in wrought iron and glass which is a historic site of the Baixa area – the elevator connects the lower city with the Chiado district and provides wonderful panoramic views of the city

View of the city and Castelo Sao Jorge from the top of the Elevator de Santa Justa

View of Lisbon with the Se Cathedral and the Tagus River

Casa dos Bicos – an old palace dating to the 16th century which is known for its detailing of diamond-point ashlars, today it is the home of numerous exhibitions, cultural events and meetings

Church of Nossa Senhora da Conceicao Velha – a fine example of Portugal’s Manueline style of architecture which is a result of a fusion of the rigorous forms of the Gothic and an enthusiastic quest for splendid decoration. Typical elements of this style can be seen in the detailed decorations adorning churches, palaces and towers and the intricate detailing found on columns.

Detail of the portal of the Church of Nossa Senhora

ALFAMA

The Alfama or Arab Al-hama (Hot Spring) is the oldest, most picturesque and fascinating quarter of Lisbon. The area is characterized by the Castle, the Cathedral, the narrow lanes paved with pebbles, tiny alleys, steps, arches, courtyards and small squares. The houses seem to shoulder one another, deteriorating, with crumbling walls and chipped tile work and with wrought iron balconies where you can find the lazy pet lounging in the sun, the laundry hanging out to dry and flowers growing in tin cans. The Alfama is one of the poorest quarters and the people that live here are the fishermen, pensioners, artisans and immigrants surviving from one day to the next. Despite this melancholy, the people here seem to be gentle, amiable and ready to help a tourist. We spent a full afternoon walking through this area, not knowing where we were going but just finding our way to the next sight or delightful surprise.

One of the entrances to the Castelo de Sao Jorge – the famous old fortified citadel of Lisbon

We had a chance to walk throughout the many different areas of the castle which afforded beautiful views of the city

A view of the Tagus River and the Ponte 25 de April, the bridge of Liberty which changed the profile of the city. Very similar to the Golden Gate in San Francisco, it is 2 kilometres and 278 metres long supported by two pylons of a 198 metres each

A great view of Lisbon, Portugal

Chris trying to find his way to save his princess

Now you can see why she might need saving??

A great shot of the castle and its casting shadows

A view of the grand ruins of the Church of Carmo and the Elevator de Santa Justa from the castle walls

Se Patriarchal – Cathedral of Lisbon which is the oldest church in the city

The dark yet severe interior of the church can draw anyone in from the exterior

Close up of the beautiful rose window

The main altar is mesmerizing with its painted ceiling, hanging Baroque organs and fine detailing

One of the many small courtyards that can be found within the Alfama district

One can find many colorful buildings like this – this is an example of the many azulejos (elegant glazed tiles) which can be found all throughout Portugal to decorate palaces, gardens, churches and homes, they are used everywhere

Largo Porta do Sol – a beautiful view point

A great shot of the Church of Santo Antonio da Se

A narrow alleyway, colorful house, detailed lantern and laundry hung out to dry – this is a typical street found in the Alfama

CHIADO

Chiado is located on a slope and is the district between the Baixa and the Barrio Alto and acts as a crossway between the upper and lower cities and between trade and culture. Chiado is an aristocratic and elegant quarter, with the famous pedestrian ruas in Lisbon, antique shops, cafes and old bookstores. It is here where one can find the ruins of the Church of Carmo, one of the most heartbreaking sights of Lisbon.

One of the main squares in the Chiado area

What’s left of the Church of Carmo – its bare Gothic arches that rise into the sky are a reminder of the earthquake that hit while mass was being said

View of the city from one of the arches

BARRIO ALTO

Barrio Alto also known as the upper city is on the hillside and quite the climb up. It is the highest quarter of Lisbon with lanes, narrow streets at right angles to each other and the ruins of houses, clad in azulejos. It is the district of a thousand faces and it is here where life begins after 7pm and lasts until dawn. You can find people strolling the streets, having a beer, enjoying a late night dinner in the streets or listening to fado music (Portuguese soft, melancholy music which is thought to have be sung by depressed sailors on the seas who were missing their families and lives back home). We spent a couple days walking through the many narrow streets here where you can easily get lost.

One of MANY narrow and lively streets in the Barrio Alto

The colorful facades of the many homes in Barrio Alto

That may not look that steep but let our legs reassure you, that IT IS!!

EXPO

The first universal exposition of the 20th century was held in Paris, the last one of this same century was held in Lisbon in 1998 with the theme: “The ocean, a legacy for the future”. The 98 Expo put Lisbon and Portugal back at the center of interest both in Europe and worldwide after a long period of isolation after the terrible earthquake that hit in the 18th century. As a result of the Expo, over an area of 60 hectares in Lisbon were converted into technologically advanced pavilions to house the conventions, cultural and artistic events of the various countries. The city improved its road and railroad connections and also built the Vasco da Gama, another bridge at 17 kilometres. In addition to the many pavilions that were built, many permanent modern buildings were also built to coincide with the makeover of this waterfront area. It was a morning well spent and one that Chris and I thoroughly enjoyed despite the dark and cloudy weather.

The first sign of the 1998 Expo can be seen in its new Orient Train Station – now this is modern architecture

Another angle of the train station showing the pedestrian walk way to the other side of the street

The interior of the train station…pretty cool

Futuristic Vasco da Gama tower in the Park of the Nations (Expo) – reminded us of our time in Dubai and the Burj Al Arab but definitely at a much smaller scale

Atlantic Pavilion – the varying components that make up this pavilion are what makes it so appealing in my opinion

Not one piece of straight glass in this structure me thinks

A shot of the pavilion from a different angle…pretty amazing what you can do with some creative architecture

May be hard to see, but that very long structure in the far distance behind Chris is PART of the longest bridge in Europe, the Ponte Vasa da Gama

A unique office building in the Expo area

And another one…

The aquarium is in the heart of the Expo area and is the largest in Europe and 2nd largest in the world – it is hard to tell in this picture but I loved the fact that the building itself was entirely isolated from the rest of the Expo area and was surrounded all around by water, quite fitting for its purpose

Chris’ turn to be camera happy…another of his favorites

Another building that stood out not only for its color but for the fact that the external stairs actually look good and provide a great space for some greenery

BELEM

We spent our last day in Lisbon, catching a train to a small town 30 minutes from Lisbon, called Belem. Belem is the translation into Portuguese of Bethlehem and it is the monumental quarter of Lisbon. The name comes from a small chapel dedicated to the Madonna of Bethlehem which stood near the old port of Restelo where, according to tradition, Vasco da Gama, one of the most important geographical discoverers prayed with his sailors the night of July 7, 1497 before embarking on a search for a new route. We ventured out to this area to visit the most important and glorious religious complex in Lisbon, the Monastery of Jeronimos; the symbol of military and marine power of Portugal, the Torre de Belem and the monument that was erected for the fifth centennial death of Henry the Navigator, the Padrao dos Descobrimentos. Unfortunately dark clouds and the onslaught of rain stopped us from seeing the Torre de Belem but we did manage to see the outstanding monastery and grab a few quick shots of the monument before making a run back to the tram for some shelter from the cold and rain.

View of the Monastery, a masterpiece in stone of that marvel of marvels, Manueline art

Detail of the south portal with the Madonna of Belem

Our first breathtaking view of the interior of the Monastery

One of the many columns that are decorated with vine tendrils, pomegranates, fruit, flowers and figures from which the Gothic vaulting with its umbrella ribbing springs

The multi-ribbed Gothic vaulting of the interior facing the rear of the church

Tomb of Luis de Comoes – a wonderful shot showing the beautiful Manueline architecture of the church in the background

The 2nd level of the church

Another great shot – we sat for quite a while in this monastery appreciating all that was around us

Old refractory of the Hieronymites with a ribbed vault ceiling and yellow walls decorated with splendid 18th century azulejos (tile work)

View of the cloister

Another fine example of the detailed Manueline art that can be seen all throughout this monastery

The external garden in the center of the cloister

View of the dome of the bell tower from the roof of the monastery

No words needed

Another view from the roof…although the pic is from a distance, you can still see the detailing

View of the entire monastery as the rain begins

And the rain becomes heavier…the Padrao dos Descobrimintos monument

Close up of the monument – it is 52 meters high and looks like a caravel about to weigh anchor and is peopled by 32 figures with Henry the Navigator at their head, holding the model of a three-master. Behind him are the explorers Vasco da Gama and Magellan and numerous others. Exhibitions of painting sculptures and photography are held inside this vast construction.

Well, that’s our three days in Lisbon, we hope you all enjoyed it as much as we did and that our visit will possibly make some of you want to come here for a vacation one day with the two of us. Perhaps you too will come here, fall in love with Portugal and be blown away by the majestic feel of it all.

Tomorrow we are back to Madrid in our continued attempt to get some tickets to a Real Madrid soccer match and to go on a day trip to the small town of Cuenca. We’re hoping things start to turn our way when it comes to Madrid and that we will be casting happy faces come tomorrow afternoon.

Ravy the Roamer