Guggenheim of Bilboa and the beaches of San Sebastian

The rocky train finally pulled into San Sebastian at half past 6 in the morning; it was still fairly dark out, as we pulled our deformed bags through the tile streets. Uncertain of where to go we relied on the Lonely Planet’s diagrammatic map to fumble our way to the old city quarter. The city was still asleep so it would seem, no vehicles were in motion, and the streets were uninhabited, and the silhouettes of apartment buildings stood lifeless as only a few lights were on. Nothing was active this time of day except for a lone café keeper setting up shop, so we sat down for a jump start to the day with of course a café con leche and a croissant. By this time, the sounds of patrons greeting café shop owners could be heard in the distance coupled with the sites of passers by, going to and fro the market stalls. Rav sat at the Café while I wandered aimlessly through the streets of the old quarter of San Sebastian in search of a place to spend the next couple of days. Everything was so expensive in San Sebastian; the usual two star hotels and pensions were at least doubled to that in Madrid and Barcelona. After a two-hour search we ended up at the Jesus Arizeta, a brand new place with a private bathroom and a TV (although most of the channels were in Spanish and a few in French). It cost 50 Euros the first night and 60 Euros the second night because it was the last weekend of the film festival. It was very clean with an elevator to boot!

Tired but restless we decided to board a bus (Yeah!!! Hooo!!! A bus) to Bilbao which was only a quick hour and 15 minute bus ride from San Sebastian. It was quick because we both feel asleep as soon as the bus departed the station. We got to Bilbao by about 1:45 and quickly made our way to the Guggenheim museum. It was unfortunate that we did not allow for more time there, as there was a lot more we could have seen. Since our main objective was to see the famous Guggenheim in Bilbao we forgo everything else.

Now I am not really a big fan of Frank Gehry from what I saw in Seattle - the installation he did at the Space Needle was a piece of crap, but I did not let that interfere with seeing this one. I did not want to get my hopes up so I merely did not think about it much. That was until I saw the thing up close and in person. I fell in love with it right away. The fluidity of the spaces and the choice of materials that he used (limestone, glass and titanium metal panels) were in great proportion and harmony, the amount of natural lighting inside the atrium space as well as the gallery spaces made viewing the questionable art pieces truly a wonderful experience. Like the Guggenheim in NY, the space enhanced the viewing of art. It is amazing to say the least. The museum is a hefty 12.5 Euros with an additional 3 Euros for the audio, but we got it all for 7.5 Euros because they were in the midst of changing the temporary collection. We did not get to see the second and third levels, but that was fine with us at the time. Actually looking back now, I am a little disappointed by that. I could have spent a few more hours there. The audio guide was a good one, better than most we have used thus far on the trip. It even included some excerpts from both the architect and the artists themselves, so that was a treat. It is always interesting to hear what the creators have to say. The audio also included a walk around the exterior of the building, which was a bonus. Photos were not allowed inside of the Museum, but on the outside it was no holds barred. Enjoy!

Frank Gehry’s - The Guggenheim in Bilbao, Spain

The main façade - if you can call it that

The exterior view of the atrium

From afar – on a near by bridge

The titanium skin – shimmering in the sun

A free standing canopy providing much needed shade for me

Rounding the corner of the Guggenheim

Let’s see the entrance again

Guggenheim from underneath a near by bridge

Back to the start, you can just go around and around this thing all day

A living sculpture – flowers are planted on this metallic structure and the coat of this canine changes throughout the season. It has become one of the famous icons of Bilbao. Okay one more kiss before I go… come on pucker up!!!

We arrived back in San Sebastian late that night, and Rav was off to the train station some 100 km away booking our ticket to Genoa, and I am here trying so sum up the day’s events and do some reading on San Sebastian. Although theories abound as to earlier origins, the first written evidence of San Sebastian dates back to 1014, arising from the Donation to Leire by the Navarran King Sancho the Strong of the Monastery of San Sebastian. Close proximity to France and its position on the Canino de Santiago route not only encouraged the development of this little coastal town, but also meant that it became a key strategic point during times of war; therefore it became a garrison town during the 12th century. More recently, San Sebastian consolidated its economic, cultural and tourist potential, encouraging new projects and, at the same time, preserving it natural and historic heritage. I can not wait to see it all.

It was way past midnight, actually it was past 3 am when we finally got to bed that night. Resting if you can call it that for the 14 km walking tour around San Sebastian’s three beaches and Urgull Mountain the next day. Can’t wait, but my body says other wise.

It was an easy walk through Ondarreta, La Concha and La Zurriola beaches with a nice walkway that encompassed the sandy shores, we did not even get any sands in our shoes. Although it was not that particularly hot, there were some brave souls scantily clad on the beaches. Since our hotel was in the middle of the walk, we had to walk 3.5 km to the starting point.

Ready set go, here I am on my way to the Ondarreta beach to start the walk

Rav more than happy gazing at the sandy beach of La Concha

A veritable symbol – railings running along La Concha bay are one of the symbols of the city. With Santa Clara Island in the back ground. A lonely light house is situated on the Island that can be visited for the day

Chris with one of Chillida’s statues “Comb of the Wind”

How about this for a house on the coast? Miramar Palace

Rav napping at the office

Okay, okay… I am up

Another sculpture - this one is called “Empty Construction”

Image of La Concha from Urgull Mountain. It is clearly shown here why it is called La Concha. Note the natural shapes on the sand.

At the top of Mount Urgull looking back at the city of San Sebastian

The Auditorium – a new building that lit up the night

The film festival was on in San Sebastian and we got the red carpet treatment? We did take in a movie that night, a Spanish film called Rough Winds. It was really good. We recommend it, and it should be in the foreign films shelf in your video store

The Buen Pastor Cathedral – this 75 meters high is visible from almost the whole city and acted as a reference point for us on a number of occasions as we wandered through the streets

It was very well lit at night and has a great omniscient feel to it

That was only one of the many walks that were available through the city. We had not really allocated enough time to spend in San Sebastian and Bilbao. We really could have used another day at both of these cities, but Italy was calling and time is running out as October is merely hours away. Can’t wait to be on an eighteen hour train ride to Genoa. At least we are going through France where the trains are a little more comfortable and a little cheaper than that of Spain.

Adios amigos,

Chunger the unemployed bum