Wednesday, August 30, 2006

Bordeaux - A quaint and pleasant town

After a wonderful five days in Paris which included our excursion to Versailles Palace, we decided it was time to leave the bustling streets of the capital city of France and make our way to the southwestern part of France to the small town called Bordeaux known for its world famous vineyards.

Although we fully enjoyed our time in Paris, we did find that the Parisians were not as friendly or helpful. They were rather pushy, did not understand the system of lining up, and we were unable to find a tourist office which could help us plan the rest of our stay in France. With this in mind, we were a little apprehensive in reaching Bordeaux, as we were not sure what to expect here either. But to our surprise and luck, as soon as we arrived at the train station, we were able to find a tourist office right outside next to the train station and a very friendly man who worked in the office and in 5 minutes was able to highlight all the main sights to see in Bordeaux, told us where the best part of town was to stay and suggested a wine tour to join. Suffice to say, all three of us were very happy with the service and our start to Bordeaux started with smiles on our faces.

We hopped onto this state of the art new tram system that Bordeaux has just installed and within 10 minutes found ourselves in the heart of the city. We started the usual hike around the town to look for accommodation. We were hoping we would luck out like we did in Paris but we found it was a wee bit harder here to get the exact same conditions and prices. After strolling through the streets and being amazed at what was around us architecturally, we were able to finally find a place at Hotel Bristol for $59.25 euros a night. The room was clean and very bright and in the heart of the city which was the best part.

As soon as we settled into our room, we headed back to the streets of Bordeaux to find ourselves some grub. We ended up having dinner at this small pub and sat out on the balcony. We laughed, ate some very good food and drank some good cheap wine!! The restaurant was a little peculiar in that they charged us $2.00 euros for a small bowl of parmesan cheese which we used two spoons of barely and the waiter had suggested a different bottle of wine to Chris and I when we ordered one and after asking if the two were the same price and he said “Yes”, the bill came with a much higher priced wine bottle on our bill. After talking to the waiter and explaining to him that this was his error, he ended up giving us the wine for the same price as the bottle we had originally ordered. SWEET DEAL for us!!

That evening and the next morning consisted of walking around this small quaint town and taking in the sights. Everything was within walking distance of each other and we thoroughly enjoyed our time here. It was a much slower pace than Paris and there wasn’t too much to see and was therefore less overwhelming. We walked through cobbled streets and enjoyed the neoclassical architecture, wide avenues and beautiful sights, which could be found hidden all throughout the town. The modern tram system added to the charm of this small city as the new against the backdrop of old was quite the sight to see.

Our 2nd afternoon in Bordeaux consisted of our wine tour. We were lucky enough to visit two different wine chateaus where we were taught a bit about the processes of how wine is made and then did some wine tasting. Natty was very excited about the wine tour as this was a first time experience for her. The 45 minute to 1 hour drive to the chateaus was breathtaking as we drove through the vineyards and could see rows and rows of grapes being planted and grown. It reminded me a lot of Chris’ and my trip to Napa Valley last year where we also did a wine tasting tour. Our favorite chateau out of the two would have to be Chateau Monconseil. Their red wines were much more fragant and not as bitter and the three of us seemed to have a grand time sipping wine and eating cheese and bread. A great way to spend an afternoon with friends.

Our next stop is along the Cote D’Azur also known as the French Riviera which stretches along the Mediterranean coast from Toulon to the Italian border. There are many small towns along this coast but our first stop will be in Nice where we are looking forward to the sun, beach, beautiful blue waters and some warmer temperatures.

Happy campers outside the train station in Bordeaux – the hug and smiles are a result of a very helpful man in the tourist office


The “good” wine for a “cheap” price…SWEET!!


Rue St Catherine – main pedestrian shopping street in Bordeaux – let’s just say Natty was on cloud 9 as we walked down this street


Porte Dijeaux – one of the city’s monumental gateways built by Voisin (1748-1753)


One of the many examples of the wide avenues in Bordeaux – clean and lined with many shops and small cafes


Girondins Monument – a 43 metre high column in homage to representatives of the Gironde department who were guillotined during the French Revolution


A statue of “Liberty breaking free from her Chains” sits on top of the Girondins Monument


Statues found at the base of the Girondins Monument – some of the statues represent the city of Bordeaux, the Garonne and the Dordogne


Maison Gobineau – famous triangular shaped building in the centre of town


The light at the end of the dark tunnel, what a shot


Saint Andre Cathedral – built in the 12-14th centuries and restored in the 19th centre, this cathedral is a fine example of Gothic architecture and is listed as a Unesco world heritage site.


Port Cailhau – Built 1493-1496, this impressive medieval gateway is a majestic remainder of the former city walls commemorating the victory of King Charles VIII at Fornovo.


Natty and I in the Place de la Bourse – an extraordinary architectural complex divided into two sections on a rectangular square. Behind us is the Hotel de la Bourse and on the other side the Hotel des Fermes (not seen in the this photo)


Hotel de la Bourse by night, what a sight!


Hotel des Ferms by night – this used to be where goods arriving at the port of Bordeaux were recorded and taxed. Currently it is the home of the National Customs and Excise Museum


An example of the new vs the old – the new state of the art tram system just installed in Bordeaux, great way to get around town


Bell Tower of the former Town Hall, vestige of a 13th century wall


This is Bordeaux


Now this is what you call “active” photography – a great shot taken by Natty. The tram whizzing by the beautiful neoclassical building in the background


In the vineyards on our wine tour


Looking a wee bit buzzed already after 3 glasses of red wine…another three to go at the next chateau.


Happy to be enjoying good wine, to be traveling a beautiful country and on top of all that doing it all with a wonderful friend. Here’s to Natty for coming out and meeting us on our travels, we know it took time, money and dedication on your part. Thanks Natty, we had an awesome time with you.

Versailles Palace - How grand can it really be...

Paris seemed to have an endless list of sights and must sees but one thing all three of us had heard a lot about and were looking forward to seeing was the Versailles Palace and a 5 hour visit later, we were not disappointed.

Versailles is a suburb 21 km southwest of Paris and is the site of the grandest and most famous chateau in France – The Palace of Versailles. It is considered to be one of the world’s most prestigious monuments and most complete achievement of the 17th century French art.

It all began as a rather small hunting lodge of King Louise XIII’s and was then transformed and enlarged by his son Louis XIV who installed his court and government here for more than a century starting from 1682. The palace was later embellished with new apartments in the 18th century during the reigns of Louise XV and Louise XVI. It was in 1789 when the Revolutionary mobs massacred the palace guard and dragged Louise XVI and Marie-Antoinette back to Paris where they eventually had their heads lopped off.

You could pretty much get lost in this 580 meter long structure with its innumerable wings, grand halls and bedchambers. We spent a good 2.5 hours inside the palace gazing at the diversity and intricacy in which each room was built. From the architecture itself to the paintings and sculptures, each room seemed to get yet another “oohhhh” and “ahhhh” from all three of us. Our favorites included the Hall of Mirrors, the Chapelle Royale and the king’s bedchamber.

Now the palace itself was amazing but what makes Versailles Palace so colossal is it’s vast gardens. As I exited the palace and made my way around the corner, all I could see in front of me was a vast network of mazes, greenery, flowerbeds , lakes and many, many beautiful statues and sculptures. The gardens are said to be adorned with more than 400 statues made of marble, bronze or lead with water-playing fountains and beyond these gardens is 90 hectares of Park to get lost in. We walked through a very small portion of the gardens and made our way towards two smaller palaces which are contained within the gardens; the Grand Trianon and the Petit Trianon. The Petit Trianon is closely linked to the memory of Marie-Antoinette, the only queen to impose her own personal tastes at Versailles, scorning the old court and its traditions. It was here where she found a private haven where she could disregard court etiquette. We wandered through the very small palace and found it much simpler in comparison to the palace - a place to definitely “get away from it all”. The Grand Trianon was a place of relaxation for the king and the royal family and a place to escape from the stiff etiquette of the court of Versailles. As much as we wanted to see this palace, we were unable to do so as we were running late to catch our train back into Paris – maybe next time.

So to sum it all up, is Versailles Palace as grand as they get? From our opinions, the answer would be yes. This is the biggest palace Chris and I have seen thus far on our trip and definitely an eye opener for Natty as well. It’s easy to see how this has attained Unesco World Heritage status – so much history, beauty and splendor in one place. Judge for yourself by checking out the pics below…

The vastness of the Versailles Palace - unbelievable


A close up of the right hand side of the palace – this is less than one half of the palace


A portion of the left hand side of the palace – different architectural styles on either side


One of the many examples of beautifully painted ceilings within the palace


The king himself


The amazing Hall of Mirrors – 70 meter magnificent room (currently under restoration) lined with mirrors on both sides which was used for great state occasions and it was here that the Treaty of Versailles was ratified at the end of World War I


Natty becoming a wee bit sleepy in the king’s bedchamber


The beautiful Chapelle Royale – Baroque chapel inside the chateau


Marie-Antoinette’s beloved Petit Trianon – simple yet still very elegant


The mass Versailles gardens behind Natty and myself

Monday, August 28, 2006

On the Road Again....Paris, France!!

Our plane departed Vancouver without a hitch, after the horrendous line to check in. The 10-hour flight went by rather quiet and quick, despite the new addition to our first leg back on the road. The boisterous Natalie AKA “Chatterbox” was not her usual self, passed right out within minutes of take off (Dub – you were right!) - much to the appreciation of the entire plane. We landed in Munich ahead of schedule as we were glad to be off the plane and into familiar territory. It felt like Rav and I had not left Germany at all. The only things missing this time were the crazy soccer fans, and the large screen TV that was assembled for the World Cup of Soccer.

Everyone eager to see Nat leave for two weeks so they can enjoy some of the oxygen as well


On the plane – the only 5 minutes all three of us were awake


Happy to land in Munich – please note, altitude sickness may cause some distortion in facial expressions for novice travellers


We quickly made our way to the Euro rail desk and were pleasantly surprised to find out that there was a train leaving for Paris that night. We ware even happier to find out that we did not have to pay for the transportation to town as it was covered in the Euro rail pass. We made our way to central station and boarded the overnight train to Paris. The train was quite empty and we thought that we had an entire compartment to ourselves but we were wrong. We were joined by two Austrians and a French man, nice enough but we wanted to get some shut eye, so we moved to another car where we found peace and quiet to rest our tired bodies. We were awoken by a smoking German man who had booked the seat next to mine. I don’t know what was worst - the second hand smoke or the loud French disco music blaring out of his I-tunes. Needless to say it was a restless night, and morning could not come fast enough for the three of us.

Our first train ride in first class….so why not pile up on Rav??



We arrived in Paris’ Gare Du Nord (train station) at 7am without any pre-booked accommodation. Much to our surprise we found the streets of Paris to be empty at this time of day. It was only later that we found out that it was a bank holiday and everything was closed, and we do mean everything (cafes, banks, restaurants, etc…). However, we did manage to find a very nice family run hotel (Printania Hotel on Boulevard Du Temple) for 60 Euros a night, that could accommodate the three of us and it had a private bathroom and was extremely clean. We were ecstatic and spent the first day in Paris getting acquainted with the new surroundings. The three of us ventured to an area called Bastille - where the prison was stormed by the revolutionists on July 14th, 1789 an event that sparked the French Revolution. Not much remains of this infamous day, but there is a memorial honoring the victims of the July 1830 revolution. We spent much of the first day orienting ourselves but managed to visit the infamous Notre Dame.

52m high hollow bronze statue


Rav and Nat enjoying French crepes in front of the new Opera house


Golden Statue on top of the Colonne de Juillet at Bastille square


Notre Dame

Built in the middle of the 12th century, Notre-Dame exemplifies the dominance of French Architecture of medieval times. Formerly a Roman Temple, Notre-Dame was reconstructed by armies of architects and craftsmen and has been renovated numerous times.

Notre-Dame front facade


Nat and Rav at the back of Notre-Dame


Garden at Notre-Dame


Rosery of Notre-Dame


Back of the Main Alter of Notre-Dame


Main Alter of Notre-Dame


Gargoyle perched on the outside of the building looking down on the city of Paris


Another great gargoyle view of Paris


The Louvre

The Louvre is the biggest museum in the world and judging from the outside of the building, we knew we were in for a long day. With much anticipation, we entered into the Louvre at the center of the courtyard where the magnificent addition by I.M. Pei dominated the space, adding a touch of modernity to this 18th century of classical and baroque architecture style like much of Paris. The simplicity of the pyramid glass structure is a great contrast to the decorative background of the Louvre itself. More impressive however, is what’s being housed on the inside of the Louvre. There are hundreds of paintings and sculptures by masters such as De Vinci, Monet, Rembrant, and Matisse, just to name a few. It would take an individual 12 hours a day for over 8 months to view everything in the museum. With that in mind the three of us entered into the museum to see it all in two and a half hours. Fighting through the crowds, we were able to see the one thing that we all had wanted to see, that of the Mona Lisa. It took a while but we did manage to see it eventually along with hundreds of others in the same room. It was a little disappointing as we had limited amount of time to spend with the painting. No photography was allowed, but that did not stop some of the patrons of the museum including our own Natty who managed to get a blurry photo of the famous painting. We managed to see some other works by Renoir, Monet, Cezanne, Braque, Balthus, Miro, Matisse, and the Venus De Milo and the Nike statue. It was quite unfortunate we couldn’t spend more time in the Louvre, but we had so many other things to see.

West wing of the Louvre - can not even get it all in the photo


The new addition to the Louvre


Glass Pyramid by I.M. Pei


Rav and Nat at the Louvre


The Old and the New


The Statue of Victory


The Mona Lisa – taken by culprit Natty Vermaas


So the girls left me at the Louvre while they went shopping along the Champs Elysees – a wide avenue full of pricey shops and restaurants. It did not take long for me to get lost at the Louvre as I wandered through one room at a time. Before I knew it, I was late to meet the girls at the Arc Du Triumph which was half an hour walk away. As I hurried through the garden that lay between the museum and the Arc Du Triumph I could not be but totally amazed by the size and grandeur of Paris. It took me a while, but I managed to meet up with the girls and of course they were not done shopping, and were complaining that they did not have enough time for all of the shops. We ventured up the Arc Du Triumph to get a vista of Paris from what was built in recognition to Napoleon and all of his conquests. Now lies a memorial to the unknown soldier for the first WWI at the middle of the Arc Du Triumph. The Arc is a great monument that has become one of the infamous icons of Paris.

Arc Du Triumph


One of the twelve corridors leading to the Arc Du Triumph


Looking back at the Champs Elysees and the Louvre


Oh what a view from top of Arc Du Triumph


A beauty by night as well


So after 10 hours of wandering through the streets of Paris, the Louvre and the Arc of Du Triumph, you would think that we would be heading back to the hotel and resting for the next day, but NO! We decided to visit the Eiffel Tower, the most romantic place in all of Paris. (Rav and I … oh, ….. and Nat) so much for romance….

The symbol of Love


So much for a romantic night - who invited her?


Always bringing laughter to everything that she does… Nat at her best


Rav and Nat seeing the Eiffel tower for the first time


Rav and I in the city of love


The three of us, a million pigeons and one really aggressive beggar had a picnic, with cheese, wine, pate, baguette, salami (for Nat - it is really Italian and not French!), more wine and a night not to forget. It was amazing to have a picnic here, looking up at the Eiffel tower along with some fellow travellers and the locals, and the en-slaught of rain (yes, you read right). The night ended much too soon when the thunder and lightening came along with the downpour. We ventured for about 20 minutes in the rain, dodging in and out of canopies, trees, and people to try and stay dry, but that was not a task we were too successful in. We were drenched through the bones within minutes, but that did not hamper our spirits as we just had more spirits…

Can you say alcoholic??


Enjoying a picnic by one of the most beautiful landmarks in the world


At the base of Eiffel Tower


An evening at the Eiffel Tower


Rav and Nat at the Eiffel Tower in the evening


How cool is this?


At the very TOP of Eiffel Tower – 1,063 ft above ground and only a mere 704 steps to the second level where you must take an elevator to get to the very top


The “storm” in Paris – guess we bought the rain with us


Okay that’s enough for one day…on to tomorrow…

Yeah it’s me again finally some peace and quiet as the girls are back on the road… to shop once again. So where was I? Mmmhhhhh , Oh yes the Museum D’Orsay. Another magnificent building, a former train station that now has been converted into a museum with more modern addition to the back, while preserving the original architecture. It is a great space and unlike the Louvre, this museum was much smaller, but very well lit with natural lighting, which enhanced our viewing of the great pieces of art.

Museum D’Orsay from across the Seine River


The interior of the space of the main exhibition hall of the Museum D’Orsay


One of many great sculptures at the Museum D’Orsay


We also visited the Picasso Museum, but were could not really understand his genius. Most of his work was on display here as the French state attained most of his work after his death. If you are a Picasso fan this is a must, but if you are not it is not worth it, because there are so many other great pieces of art to see in Paris.

Another museum we skipped was that of the Paompidou - the Museum of Modern Art, although we did see the museum from the outside. Tell me what you think of this one. Not really something you would expect to see in Paris. It looks more like a factory to me, although the piazza outside was quite a nice space.

Image of the Pompidou from the street


Pompidou from the piazza


And then there was the Musee Rodin where some of Rodin’s sculptures are on display. This was a very nice museum with his works scattered within the building and within the garden. My favorite was The Thinker nestled within the garden, but you can still see a glimpse of the Eiffel tower behind him. It was a great afternoon where we ventured through the garden and enjoyed his work. Unfortunately Rodin’s “The Kiss” was a bit of a let down as it was in a room that was poorly lit and was not displayed properly.

The Thinker


Nat and Rav –thinking about their next shopping trip in Paris


Rav at the end of the garden in the Musee Rodin


The hands of the statue “Three Shades”


Nat trying to get into the Rodin Museum..something tells me they won’t accept a never ending talking statue


Imitating the Three Shades….we like to have fun everywhere we go including the museums


The Kiss – another famous piece of Rodin’s work


Now this is a REAL KISS


We also saw some great buildings that were not museums. These included the Opera House and the Hotel De Ville. Two magnificent buildings that stop you dead in your tracks.

Front façade of the Opera House


Rav and Nat being themselves and having a grand time as always


Nat wanting to be the lamp post


Hotel De Ville – formerly a hotel but now city hall


Bazzar de Hotel De Ville


In between all of the museums and great buildings, the girls did manage to do some shopping and even took in a show at the famous Moulin Rouge. So I will pass this over to one of them to write a few words on that experience.

A show at the Moulin Rouge was a definite must see for Nat and I. We knew it would be pricey but we were willing to fork out the dough to be able to see a show at the most famous cabaret in Paris even though Nicole Kidman and Ewan McGregor weren’t going to be there in person!! :) We ended up booking a combo tour at the Cityrama travel agency which provided us with an one hour evening boat cruise around the waters of the Seine River followed by the 11pm Moulin Rouge show, Feerie for a great price of $94 euros – not a bad deal at all. We had a FANTASTIC night. The boat cruise along the water was amazing as we got to see many of the major landmarks and bridges of Paris lit up – it would have been PERFECT if my huney was there with us but he had opted out of the Moulin Rouge show as he was not as interested as going as we were so seeing this beautiful romantic city with Natty was the second best thing (kidding Nat, I’m kidding). But boy what a different nightfall can bring.

After the cruise, we made our way to the Moulin Rouge and as soon as we arrived, it’s exactly what we had imagined. The lights, the line up of people all dressed up in front, and the characteristic windmill all came into view as our bus rounded the street. “Broad shoulders”, aka Natty, made her way from the back of the bus on the top level down to the bottom and was first in line out of our group. How she did it, I’m still trying to figure out but hey, it was good for us. We got great seats when we were ushered into the cabaret, which looked exactly what you would imagine a cabaret to look like. It was dimly lit with red lights, there were tables everywhere and everyone sat very close to one another, the bubbly was being drank and the staff were running around like chickens with the their heads cut off trying to meet the demands of the customers. We ended up getting seats on the 2nd floor, one tier up from the main floor and had the two front seats overlooking the balcony so there was no one blocking our view of the stage. And as soon as we made a toast and took our first sip of the champagne, the lights were dimmed and the action started. The show was fantastic - the songs, the flashy outfits, the choreography of the dances and the singing were unbelievable. So unbelievable for Nat, that at one point, I looked over and she had dozed off. I gave her a few minutes at which time, I pinched her. Let’s just say she didn’t fall back asleep after that. The 1 hour and 45 minute show was well worth every penny and we were both glad we had gone. An evening not to be forgotten. (Unfortunately we were unable to take photographs while the show was happening, guess you’ll have to come out to Paris one day and see it for yourselves, definitely worth the trip).

The Moulin Rouge


Awake now, but not for long!!


What a sight – inside of the most famous cabaret in the world


Girls Night out in Paris, France


We spent 5 days in Paris, that flew by rather quickly. At the end of each night we were exhausted from the day’s activities but could not be more content. We also had been able to have some really good food here as well. To our surprise the prices of food in Paris is not that bad, so we have been able to enjoy some of the finer things in life, like croissants and wine. There are so many things to see and do in Paris that the 5 days we spent here were really just a good starting point. How can you really appreciate all that wonderful art work that people have spent a lifetime developing and mastering in just 5 days. We will be back for sure.

This is Paris – the land of love


And this too is Paris – the land of meeting new people – Nat’s new friend, Milan who thought she was a pretty girl and had a beautiful smile - no broad shoulders comment here


You don’t want to know….believe us!!


Getting lost in the streets of Paris – famous last words “Take a left, I’m sure all the streets connect back up again”….NOT


No license needed here…god help all Parisians on the road


Good times and great friends…Paris was a blast!!


Next, we are off to Versailles.....