From Xi’an we caught another overnight sleeper train to Tai’an. Being the experienced train goer’s that we now were after one overnight train, we knew what to expect and where to go and the 2nd overnight train ride was smooth sailing. The long 18 hour journey was spent pretty much the same way the 1st one was with a few slight differences. On this train, we all pretty much felt like we were movie stars as we had gained a paparattzi throughout the evening. We all pretty much had three compartments in a row this time and were sharing compartments rather than being separated and were all situated at one end of the carriage. On the other end we slowly began to grow a fan base and at one point, we all looked down the carriage and there were around 10-15 Chinese men staring at us; some were peeking their heads out from the top bunks to take a peek, some were standing on the chairs trying to take our pictures and others seemed to be hanging off the luggage rack to get a better look. At first they seemed a bit shy and were taking pictures from afar but as we started to take their pics in return and started to laugh and smile at all this attention, they slowly started to progress closer until they were so comfortable, one of the men jumped Chris (not my Chris but big Chris from the tour group) from behind to take a photo with him and some were trying to steer their way into Emily’s compartment to get a closer picture of her. It was all in good fun and we thoroughly enjoyed the attention and vice versa, the locals had fun with us as well. Again, another “experience” which we could not have experienced if we had taken a bus to Tai’an or were booked into the other carriages on the train where there were closed doors for each sleeping compartment. We went to bed excited to see what Tai’an had in store for us.
Upon arrival in Tai’an, we were met by our local guide for the next two days, Nancy. She took us to a hotel where we had some time to quickly freshen up and get ready for a large hike up Mt. Taishan. We were to join the pilgrims for this 8 km hike up the mountain which was 1,545m high and consisted of 6,666 steps. Yes, you read right, 6,666 steps. There was an option at the mid way point to catch the gondola up to the very top for those who were not necessarily feeling very energetic after our first 5 action packed days of the tour. Before even starting I was very unsure as to whether or not I would be able to go the whole way to the top as not only was I feeling rather tired from the last few days of activity but I also knew how difficult climbing stairs and elevation were for me because of my asthma problems. I knew without a doubt that Chris was going to climb the mountain to the very top regardless of how tired he was or how steep it was, so really it was just me who would have to make a decision at the half way point.
Mt. Taishan is considered the holiest mountain in northern China. According to legend, God Pangu, separated heaven from Earth and when he died, his body became 5 separate mountains. Mount Taishan became the most sacred one not only because it was the furthest East (closest to the Sun representing birth) but it also stemmed from his head (the most sacred part of the body). Thus, making Mt Taishan the holiest mountain and emperors and peasants alike would hike this mountain to pray to the heavens annually.
So we all started our journey up the mountain on a gorgeous sunny day looking forward to what lay ahead of us. We had been warned by Jess that the first half of the mountain up to the mid way point would be relatively easy for all of us and it was the 2nd half that would become much more difficult and steeper. Keeping this in mind, we started our pilgrimage up Mt Taishan like they would have done centuries ago. The start of the climb was good as the steps leading up the mountain were nice small concrete steps and along the way were several small temples you could stop to explore and get some rest. Although the nice groomed steps made it easier, it was still a workout for us as the mountain steadily became steeper and steeper. At one point, we had lost sight of the group and figured that meant Jess and some of the others had already taken the turn off to take the gondola up the 2nd half of the mountain (as they had decided in advance they were not going to climb the entire thing). With this in mind and not seeing them behind us, we figured we were close to the top and had already by passed the mid way point without knowing it. This was glorious news to me as I was beginning to get very tired and my legs were starting to feel heavier and heavier with each step. So Chris and I rounded a corner and ahead saw another flight of steps that seemed to end at a landing and we could see some buildings in the distance. I wasn’t 100% we were at the end as these steps seemed to go on and on and on but Chris was sure that we had reached the top. Suffice to say, he was oh so wrong.
As we took what we thought was our last step onto the landing, I looked around and saw a restaurant straight ahead, many people walking around the area, some were sitting and relaxing and we saw a gondola station. I was sure we had done it and was ecstatic until we walked a few more steps and I saw the gondola lines continue from the station. They kept going and going and going…my eyes couldn’t quite follow where they went until I rounded the bend and pretty much stopped in my tracks. I turned to Chris and said “This is half way honey!!!” In front of us stood the rest of the mountain…and boy, was it ever a mountain. It kept climbing up and up into the heavens it seemed and when we looked close enough, we could actually see the path leading up the mountain and could see in the near distance dedicated souls making the trek up. We looked at one another in awe and astonishment and before Chris could even ask me if I wanted to continue, I had already decided that I would. Despite how difficult I knew it would be for me, I decided this was something I needed to do not only because I would feel like it was a huge accomplishment for me (again those who understand “quarter way” will understand what I’m talking about) but because a part of me wanted to know what it must feel like for the locals to make this trek to the top not only today but centuries ago as well. They make this climb as it is something they believe will benefit them and help them in their lives and being in China, I wanted to be able to somehow understand this and the only way I thought I could accomplish this was to climb the mountain the entire way.
So after the 2 hour climb up the first half of the mountain, we started our way up the 2nd half without a break. We took a few minutes to chat to some other members of our group who were planning on taking the gondola up, took a few pictures and then started the rest of the journey. The 2nd half of the mountain was definitely steeper and there were definitely way more stairs. The stairs seemed to be in longer segments but thankfully there were landings after these long segments for you to stop and take a breather. We took our time and pretty much set a steady pace from the start. We stopped a few times to take a breather, enjoy the scenery and in my case, to just look up the mountain to see how much more we had to go. One or two times I wasn’t sure if I was going to make it as my legs were starting to feel like lead but with Chris’ reassuring words, the knowledge that there was no way off the mountain except to go up, and seeing old men and women walk up the mountain carrying heavy loads, we continued in our mission. We were finally on the very last stage of steps and as we were walking them hand in hand, we looked up and saw Jess’ smiling face. She had promised to wait for those of us who had decided to climb the 2nd half and seeing her at the top was a pleasant surprise. It was like we had someone waiting to cheer us on. With her in sight, we took the last steps quickly and easily and finally reached the top after an amazing 1 hour and 20 minutes. Reaching the top was pure elation. It felt so great to have climbed the entire mountain and felt like a pure accomplishment for the both of us. We hugged each other in celebration of our feat and made our way through the victory gate to the other side to explore this famous and holy mountain.
Once on top, we could understand why locals thought climbing the mountain would bring you closer to the heavens to pray to the Gods. The views all around were amazing and the structures and buildings they had built on top added that extra touch. We took our time exploring the top and looking down the path we had just climbed. I was very proud of both Chris and I for accomplishing what we had set out to do. After some more picture opportunities, we all made our way down the mountain via the gondola and enjoyed the ride down as we not only were not using our legs but we were able to see just how far some of us climbed.
We boarded the bus to head back to the hotel to freshen up before we were heading for a 2 hour bus journey into the farm villages of Buyang, a typical Chinese village to stay with local families to explore their everyday Chinese way of life. More on this in our next posting on Part II of Tai’an. Until then, here’s to not seeing another step for quite some time….
1 comment:
sounds like an incredible journey. good for you. as if the great wall wasn't big enough, they had to build another massive structure to walk.
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